New Places: French Pastries, Detroit-style ‘Za, and More
The Brunchful
With the glut of breakfast spots in Downtown Gables, opening a restaurant like The Brunchful on Miracle Mile seems a risky move. The establishment is half-brunch restaurant, half-bakery, where customers can either opt for a sit-down meal or order at the counter. Advantage: In comparison with other Gables hotspots, the menu is relatively cheap; sandwiches cost no more than $10.50, smoothies $7.95, and even their caffeinated beverages fall below $5.25.
Like many Miami dining experiences, the menu contains dishes borrowed from Hispanic cuisines without fully labeling itself as a Latin restaurant. In this case, The Brunchful sells Argentinian classics such as empanadas, crumb sandwiches, and a few steak dishes.
All of The Brunchful’s juices are fresh pressed, so we opted to start our meal with a glass of orange juice ($6). We then dug into their classic pancakes ($7.95), which unfortunately fell a bit short of our expectations. The syrup was almost unbearably sweet, and the pancakes themselves were dense and overly crispy on the edges. However, the almond alfajor ($X.XX), stuffed with dulce de leche, was a huge hit and a decadent end to our meal. Now to see if the latest addition to the Gables brunch scene can face the competition! – Maya Rego
369 Miracle Mile
@thebrunchful
thebrunchful.com
Gusto Casero By MDQ Sweets
Another Argentinian eatery and bakery, Gusto Casero By MDQ Sweets, features a multifaceted menu that offers guests a wide selection of items for breakfast or lunch, as well as a litany of pastries and desserts for those craving something sweet.
We stopped by for lunch and were immediately met by the tantalizing empanadas on display. We tried the chicken option, which was fresh and flavorful, though very oniony, which some might find a bit overpowering (though we liked it).
For our entrée, we went with the parma sandwich, recommended by our waiter. This layered sub was filled with prosciutto, tomatoes, and arugula and finished off with a drizzle of balsamic glaze, which tied everything together nicely.
The most difficult part of our visit to MDQ Sweets was picking the right dessert. After careful consideration of the many worthy options, we landed on the brownie individual, a cold, tart-like cake layered with caramel and topped with a toasted meringue. While the dessert, especially the meringue portion of it, was scrumptious, the heaviness suggests it’s worth sharing.
Like the food, the service was excellent, creating a cozy and friendly atmosphere at this laidback cafe. – Luke Chaney
2030 Douglas Rd. #102 (The Minorca)
@gustocaserobymdq
305.200.3713
Lien Bruno: Masterful French Pastries
Some might argue that another bakery is the opposite of what Miracle Mile needs. But the eponymous Lien Bruno, run by Chef Lien Bruno herself, proves that one can never have enough baked goods – especially when they are as masterfully crafted as the French classics served here.
We first dug into the ultimate test of a boulangerie: the pain au chocolat ($6). Fail here, and calling yourself an authentic French bakery goes off the table. Fortunately, Lien Bruno’s was splendid: A perfect chocolate-to-croissant ratio with buttery dough, though the outside shell of could have had a bit more crunch.
The chausson aux pommes vanille ($7.20), a flaky apple-filled turnover spiced with an almost overwhelming amount of vanilla bean, tasted as beautiful as it looked. Once again, the dough was exceptional; not too chewy while remaining upright under the weight of the filling, while the crispness of the minced apples kept it from becoming a glorified jelly donut.
Lastly, we tasted two flavors of paris-brest ($13), a dessert made of pâte à choux and a praline-flavored cream, one hazelnut and the other pistachio. While the hazelnut version was quite sugary, the pistachio balanced savory and sweet, topped with lightly salted pistachios that paired perfectly with the gluttonous cream. We’ll definitely return for some of Chef Bruno’s other consummate confections. – Maya Rego
135 Miracle Mile
786.503.5323
lienbruno.com
Emmy Squared
Though pizza abounds everywhere in the Greater Miami area, we were surprised – and a bit hesitant – to see the Gables’ newest pizza place advertising Detroit-style ‘za. However, Emmy Squared, which has locations up and down the East Coast (including Fort Lauderdale), makes a solid claim to the City Beautiful’s best fast-casual pizza spot, however.
We were thrilled by our VIP pizza ($23-$28), which was topped with crispy slices of pepperoni, Calabrian chiles, and parsley pesto. The Detroit pizza format means the pies here are rectangular pan pizzas with thick, crispy crusts. The VIP takes it a step further with a sesame seed crust and homemade vodka sauce base. We were skeptical of the sauce, wondering what vodka sauce was doing on a pizza and whether it would entirely smother the dish, but were pleasantly surprised by its lightness, which deftly tied together cheese and bread. Our only complaint was the distribution of the Calabrian chiles, clumped together and therefore making for some extremely spicy bites.
We also tried the award-winning Le Big Matt Burger ($18), a half-pound double-stacked sandwich loaded with grass-fed beef, American cheese, pickles, lettuce, and Emmy’s special Sammy sauce between pretzel buns. We won’t give it the same accolades as the pizza, though it was scrumptious and definitely worth a shot if you’re not a fan of Detroit-style ‘za. We expect an appearance at Burgerliscious next year. – Kylie Wang
230 Miracle Mile
786.607.3669
emmysquaredpizza.com
Maman
The Gables is full of what one may call “third places” — ones outside of home or the workplace that allows people to comfortably connect with their community. Maman, the latest addition to Miracle Mile’s food scene and a New York City staple, measures up to the plethora of cafes, restaurants, bars, and bookstores that make up “third places” in the City Beautiful.
With locations in Wynwood and Miami Beach, Maman is self-described as a blend of North American and Southern French cuisine. The space is charming; the combination of earth-toned woods, marble tables, and faux flowers hanging from the ceiling create a welcoming atmosphere. The menu consists of both breakfast and lunch options, somewhere between restaurant, bakery, and café. Guests looking for a quick snack will be happy to find a pastry case displaying a bountiful assortment of heavenly-looking French viennoiseries.
The Carol Tomato Soup ($14) is creamy but not overindulgent; pair it with a grilled cheese and you’ll be transported to your childhood. Our favorite dish was the Catalina’s Veggie Sandwich ($16), which features grilled halloumi, zucchini, avocado, and a tangy jalapeno-celery giardiniera, all on crusty bread. For dessert, we opted for the pistachio-chocolate croissant ($5.50). While the dough was a bit chewy, the rich pistachio filling made up for it.
All in all, Maman is an excellent spot to knock out some work or have a chat with a friend while enjoying a good meal. – Maya Rego
136 Miracle Mile
305.603.9206
mamannyc.com
Explore more dining spots in our Bites section!