Mexico City Mélange
MEXICO’S CAPITAL IS A MESMERIZING MIX OF YESTERDAY AND TODAY
By Yousra Benkirane / photos by Rodolfo Benitez
The first thing you notice about Mexico City is its size – a sprawling maze of neighborhoods and towering skyscrapers home to 22.5 million citizens. But as I stepped onto my hotel balcony and took in the scene below, I understood what the locals tell you – the city is all about its neighborhoods; each its own world, distinct from other distant areas of the vast metropolis.

I was staying in the Roma district at La Casona Roma, a boutique hotel in the heart of the district. Its colonial-style architecture and lush courtyard felt like a serene escape from the city’s buzz, which played out below my balcony with bikers, skaters, and street vendors – and dog walkers juggling leashes for gangs of their furry charges. It turns out that Mexicans love their dogs – it’s estimated that half the country owns canine pets.
A relatively short four-hour flight from Miami, Mexico City offers a striking contrast to Miami’s coastal beaches and cruise ports, an intoxicating blend of old and new. My hotel was the case in point, blending antique furnishings with modern amenities. The hotel doubles as an art gallery, showcasing paintings and sculptures by local artists, reflecting another aspect of Mexico City – a reverence for art and its role in the country’s history and traditions, from Aztec carvings to the massive murals of Diego Rivera at The Palace of Fine Arts.
On my first day, I explored Roma. Known for its walkability, this upscale area invites leisurely strolls. Named after Rome, Italy, the neighborhood features streets and architecture reminiscent of that great city, earning it the nickname “Little Rome.” While eateries were everywhere, I confess that I first indulged at the hotel’s Aquiles restaurant for its traditional dishes, like rich mushroom quesadillas and the best guacamole I’ve ever tasted. Breakfast the next morning was served in the courtyard: fresh pastries, fruit, and strong Mexican coffee. The country’s pastries are a big part of its culinary heritage, from flaky conchas to crispy churros.
That morning I visited Zócalo, the main square in the city’s historic center, El Centro. It’s one of the largest plazas in the world, once the ceremonial center in the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan. Pigeons scattered as I walked toward the Metropolitan Cathedral, its centuries-old spires standing proudly against the bright blue sky. I eavesdropped on a tour guide who shared stories of conquistadors and indigenous craftsmen, pointing out intricate details of the altar, a blend of Gothic and Baroque styles that felt uniquely Mexican.



Right: Mexico City’s best mole enchiladas at the celebrated Azul restaurant in El Centro.
Top Left: The Metropolitan Cathedral dominates the Zócalo main square in the historic center.
Bottom Left: Teotihuacán, the ancient city of pyramids.
The sun warmed the square as I followed my nose to a nearby cantina for lunch. Filomeno Gran Cantina, located in a 100-year-old beautifully restored Porfirian building, was a delight. Here, I had my first sip of mezcal, bold and smoky, alongside steak tacos topped with fried cheese; it was clear why this spot was packed with people.
For a uniquely Mexican experience, that night I attended a Lucha Libre professional wrestling match. Beer in hand (with a tajín-coated rim), I found myself shouting at the top of my lungs. The arena buzzed with energy as masked wrestlers flew across the ring, performing outlandish moves. While the fighting was staged, the fun was genuine.
The next day, I returned to El Centro for lunch at Azul, one of the world’s top restaurants. It consists of a large courtyard filled with cropped trees, from which hundreds of small candles hang. I was here for the mole, rumored to be the best in Mexico City. And it was: a velvety sauce aged for hundreds of days, its deep, complex flavors like a history lesson for the palate.


Left: The busy Filomeno Gran Cantina at lunchtime.
Right: Lucha libre professional wrestling, a uniquely Mexican experience for a fun evening.
I spent the afternoon at peaceful Chapultepec Park, home to the Museo Nacional de Antropología. This is one of the world’s great museums, filled with everything from ancient Olmec heads to intricate Mayan hieroglyphs. It is also adjacent to the lovely Condesa neighborhood, which feels like turn-of-the-century Europe. I relocated here to the Andaz Mexico City Condesa, a sleek, modern hotel exuding contemporary luxury. The rooftop pool offered stunning views of the cityscape, perfect for a morning swim or sunset cocktails. The on-site restaurant served inventive takes on classic Mexican dishes, like duck carnitas tacos and mezcal-infused desserts.
The next day I ventured to Teotihuacán, the ancient city of pyramids. The Pyramid of the Sun loomed large against the horizon, its steep steps beckoning the adventurous. Wandering down the Avenue of the Dead, I stopped at the Pyramid of the Moon to take in its grandeur and surrounding temples.
Back in the city, I finally dove into the legendary street food scene. Drawn to a stand bustling with locals, I tried the carne asada tacos – succulent, smoky steak kissed with hints of spice and crowned with sweet, juicy pineapple. It was a perfect ending to my adventure in a city full of history, culture, and flavor.
Check out our previous travel feature, Life in Color, where a trip to Turks and Caicos offers a new way of seeing. Read More.