Literary Beer, Haute Italian, and All That Jazz
What makes a night in the Gables so easy is that it’s all walkable.
On a recent Friday night, we started our evening at Books & Books in the spacious outdoor courtyard bracketed by a wine and beer bar. There would be music later, but for now, the courtyard denizens, of all ages, were content to order food from the indoor café and chat vivaciously. The sun was still shining, prompting bartender Raul Amorin to ask when the winter days would grow shorter.
Amorin has been a fixture at the Books & Books bar for 16 years, well-liked by patrons as well as their dogs, who sidle up expecting a treat that Amorin gladly provides. “He’s like the dog whisperer,” said one customer. “They all love him.” I loved the icecold draft beer he poured, which took the edge off the heat while my date shopped inside for a mystery novel. Inside as well, about 40 people were listening to the author of “Shackled,” a book about the mistreatment of African political prisoners. I listened for a few minutes before going back outside
Feeling quite literary, we walked down to Tullio on Valencia, where we had a reservation for dinner. The winner of this year’s Best Fine Dining award from Coral Gables Magazine, Tullio is presided over by Lucio Zanon, a native of Venice who prides himself on dishes from that part of Italy. He is also a consummate host, greeting customers with an infectious warmth. Eating at Tullio is almost theatrical, with many dishes finished table side.
We ordered the branzino for two, a whole fish that Lucio’s son Sebastian fileted tableside. For pasta, we tried the cacio de pepe, which Lucio also prepared tableside, rolling the piping hot pasta in a wheel of cheese. Both dishes were superb. We also had Bellini cocktails, which made us feel sophisticated, Italian, and refreshed.
Lucio wanted us to try his gelato, which he prepares fresh with “the Ferrari of gelato machines.” But we had other plans for dessert, at the Armstrong Jazz House on Miracle Mile, where we walked next.
While the epicenter of jazz in the Gables has long been The Globe on Alhambra, their Afro-Cuban band plays only on Saturday nights. Armstrong, contrariwise, offers jazz every night of the week, starting at 6 pm and wailing until 11 pm. It is not a large place – eight tables inside, plus seating at the bar – but that is part of its charm. Inside feels like a jazz club in the West Village, with lovers of the genre packed in.
We made the mistake of not making reservations, so, rather than wait for a table inside, we sat outside in the sidewalk café section. The music that night was excellent, classic jazz a la Oscar Peterson or Sonny Rollins, played by Crescent, a band with bass, drums, keyboard, and saxophone.
We ordered coffee and dessert – cappuccinos with chocolate cake and something called a Paris Pavlova. The coffee was served in elegant china, and both desserts were delicious – especially the pavlova, with its layers of sliced strawberry and meringue.
Our evening now complete, we strolled back to the parking garage across from Books & Books. Their music was now in play – a single trumpet player backed by a synthesizer. Interesting, but not exactly the Jazz House.