Finding a Balance

At Zucca, it’s the complex blend of flavors that makes the difference.

BY Kylie Wang

Built in 1926, the building that houses Hotel St. Michel and Zucca is one of Coral Gables’ oldest. Originally, it was the Karp Building, a retail and office space designed by architect Anthony Zink and built at a cost of $250,000. It was later transformed into the Sevilla Hotel and then renovated and restored to become the current boutique hotel and historic landmark. Our favorite way to visit when we’re not there for a weekend staycation is dinner at Zucca, the Italian restaurant downstairs that serves both patrons of the hotel and the larger downtown Coral Gables area. One of the top power lunch spots in the Gables, with dark walls that enhance a serious ambience perfect for discussing business, the restaurant emphasizes high-quality ingredients and the authentic Italian culinary tradition.

Owner Erasmo Da Silva of Zucca, which is housed in the Hotel St. Michel. Its interior is dark with a warm ambient glow.

According to owner Erasmo Da Silva, “At Zucca, dining is not just about eating [but] about celebrating flavors, connections, and the art of hospitality.” While that is true – the service is consistently impeccable – we do love the food. We always start with the Fiori Di Zucca Ripieni De Caprino E Miele Al Tartufo ($26), a dish nearly as good as its title is long. Here, zucchini flowers stuffed with goat cheese are dipped in tempura batter made partly with sparkling water, then fried and drizzled with Italian white truffle honey. A bit of misticanza salad brings a touch of acidity to an otherwise sweet and savory plate. It’s one of the restaurant’s signature dishes – “zucca,” after all, translates to “squash” or “gourd” – and speaks to the restaurant’s philosophy on flavor: everything balanced.

This is also true of the Polpette D’agnello Con Pomodoro E Ricotta ($17): lamb meatballs served with tomato sauce, ricotta cheese, and ciabatta crostinis. The sauce is made with San Marzano tomatoes, a type of plum tomato from the Campania region of Italy known for its unique flavor combining acidity and sweetness. A bit of mint rounds off the dish, neutralizing any gaminess in the lamb. Hard to share – it’s a bit messy – but great to eat.

We were also entranced by the Wagyu Carpaccio ($35), which came with white beech mushrooms, Grana Padano cheese, and summer truffles. At Zucca, the meat is a Wagyu eye of round, a lean, flavorful cut from the cow’s hindquarters known for its tenderness. It’s salted for five days, then marinated in red wine for another week. A splash of lemon and olive oil brings out more flavor, amplified by the cheese, mushrooms, and truffle. The most complex dish we ordered, we were pleasantly surprised at how the flavors complemented each other. As always: balance.

Top: Wagyu carpaccio with white beech mushrooms, Grana Padano cheese, and summer truffles.
Bottom: Homemade bucatini with cacio e pepe sauce and truffles – presented tableside and shaved over the pasta.
Right: Cotoletta alla Milanese dello Chef, a large veal chop Milanese coated in grissini breadstick crumbs.

Since we were a relatively large group, we decided to share the Cotoletta Alla Milanese Dello Chef (MP) entree, a massive veal chop Milanese, breaded with Grissini breadstick crumbs, panko, and semolina (the hard grains leftover after flour is milled), and fried in clarified butter. It’s served with a nice array of sides, including roasted potatoes and an arugula and tomato salad, and comes pre-sliced so everyone can have a bite. The dish easily satiates two empty stomachs; having enjoyed several other dishes, even the four of us couldn’t quite finish it.

This author is a huge fan of truffles, which is why the Bucatini Cacio e Pepe ($28) with a truffle add-on for $12 is a personal favorite. The bucatini, which has a hollow center perfect for scooping up sauce, is homemade, and the simple base contains Pecorino Romano and black pepper. Cacio e Pepe often comes out more like an Alfredo sauce at restaurants without a strong sense of heritage, but that’s not the case here. The sauce is delightfully peppery without being too strong, well-balanced by its creaminess, and – because we sprang for the truffles – superbly savory. The show was also nice, as our waiter arrived and presented us with a box of chunky black truffles set in what looked like a mini Zen garden. He shaved off thin slices tableside, ensuring we knew exactly what we had paid for – and why.

With every dish, we paired a glass of wine from Zucca’s award-winning collection. The restaurant is a six-time winner of the Wine Spectator Excellence Award and has a lengthy list of Italian wines, as well as French and American selections. We started the night with a pre-meal aperitivo: what Zucca describes as “related to the Italian ‘la Dolce Vita,’ a moment of the daily lifestyle groove where the cultural gathering habitat arises at sunset.” Quite a mouthful, but we ended the night in the same style, with a digestivo to aid digestion and facilitate final  conversation. After all, that’s the Italian way.