New Coral Gables Restaurants: Marhaba, Fuku & Belluz Pizza

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Marhaba

A TASTE OF LEBANON COMES TO THE GABLES 

HUMMUS, BABAGHANOUJ, FRIED FALAFEL BALLS AND GREEK SALAD

For its long-time patrons in South Miami, Marhaba is not a new restaurant. But its latest home on Madruga Avenue, taking the place of the last Chinese restaurant in the city, makes it new for the Gables. Its relatively modest space in a retail strip provides a comfortable, intimate setting, with hanging lanterns, soft drapery, patterned walls and green velvet chairs. It feels neighborhood warm, a place for people to settle in, pass plates around and stay awhile – or knock out a quick lunch. The easy atmosphere fits the clientele, diners from different backgrounds gathered over Lebanese food that tastes completely traditional.

We ordered the Marhaba Trio ($20) to start, with hummus, Baba ghanouj, and labneh, all fresh dips distinct in texture and flavor: The hummus was smooth and mellow, the babaghanouj had a nice smokiness, and the labneh brought a cool tang. The deep-fried falafel balls ($10) came out crisp and deeply browned, with a side of tahini. The tabouleh salad ($10) stood out for its brightness, packed with parsley, tomato and lemon. We also tried the Greek salad ($14), a mix of romaine, cucumber, tomato, onion, and Kalamata olives. The meat pies ($8) had a browned crust and a savory filling. For mains, the chicken kabob ($25) was simple and satisfying, served with angel hair rice and grilled vegetables. The Marhaba Shrimp ($27), dusted with sumac and served in a creamy sauce, was the richer of the two. Altogether, the meal felt fresh, familiar and well made. – Yousra Benkirane

1537 Madruga Ave.
786.752.8330
$$-$$$

Pastor at Pascal 

HAUTE SPANISH MEETS FRENCH CUISINE 

PASTEL VASCO – WARM MANCHEGO CHEESECAKE WITH RED FRUIT JAM FROM THE BASQUE COUNTRY

Just under 26 years ago Chef Pascal Oudin opened Pascal on Ponce, and his intimate and elegant 55-seat restaurant soon became the benchmark for refined, classic French cuisine in South Florida, let alone Coral Gables. Last year Oudin retired, replaced by Chef Alberto Pastor, a Basque native who has transitioned the restaurant into a combination of Spanish and French fare. We recently lunched there and were happy to see that the same sense of old-world elegance pervades. The menu itself was fairly split between new Spanish dishes and some of Pascal’s French cuisine, with a slight tilt toward the Iberian: White asparagus “cojonudos” from the Navarra region of Spain ($29.92) or Burgundy escargot with garlic butter ($22.95) for appetizers, for example, and Galician style grilled octopus ($32.95) or grilled chicken “Paillard” ($26.95) for mains.

We ordered the pappardelle pasta with beef meatballs ($24.95) and the piquillo peppers stuffed with braised oxtails ($34.95). Neither were terribly impressive, both arriving with a homemade brown sauce – good but not special, both a little on the soft and bland sides. The Pastel Vasco, however, a warm Manchego cheesecake with red fruit jam from the Basque country ($16), was astonishingly good and makes us believe that Chef Pastor has some exceptional tastes under his sleeve. – JP Faber

2611 Ponce de Leon Blvd.
305.444.2024.
pastoratpascal.net
$$$-$$$$

Fuku

FRIED CHICKEN, JAPANESE STYLE

JAPANESE SANDO SANDWICH OF DEEP-FRIED CHICKEN SERVED ON A CRUSTLESS JAPANESE MILK BREAD BUN ON AT FUKU

A Sando is a popular Japanese sandwich comprised of deep-fried chicken served between slices of soft, crustless Japanese milk bread. A little over a decade ago it became an off menu “secret” at Chef David Chang’s Momofuku Noodle Bar in New York City, so popular that when Chang’s eatery relocated in 2015 its Manhattan space was taken over by Fuku, which focused on the Sando and other variations of Japanese fried chicken.

The Fuku brand soon spread, opening in different stadiums, from Yankee Stadium in New York to the T-Mobile Arena in Las Vegas to the Hard Rock Stadium in Miami Gardens. The Coral Gables location marks its first standalone restaurant in South Florida, with a second in the works for West Palm Beach.

The menu includes three versions of the OG sando, chicken burgers, and chicken tenders, with sides that include cucumber salad, gem wedge salad, rice vinegar and waffle fries. We opted for the OG
sando ($12.50), which includes crispy brined chicken, Fuku mayo, pickles, and a butter-toasted potato roll. It is a well-executed sandwich, with a firm texture and crisp exterior. We also tried the tenders ($11.25) paired with honey mustard. They landed well – unlike the slightly soggy fries. Best stick to the chicken and salads here. Framed images of chicken wings are hung around the restaurant, along with wooden shelves displaying soy sauce, tamari, and chili crunch for sale. The seating is ample, with booths along the walls and outdoor seating along the Mile. ––Amanda Martell

135 Miracle Mile.
786.615.5901
eatfuku.com
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Belluz Pizza

IS THAT A WHOLE PIE OR A SLICE?

THIN CRISPY ROMAN-STYLE PIZZA HAS COME TO THE GABLES. BUY THE WHOLE PIE OR BUY A SLICE

Finding a pizzeria that offers slices instead of whole pies is impossible to find in Coral Gables. Full pies are never the problem, but that walk-in, point-and-pick experience most cities take for granted never quite took hold here. Until now. Belluz Pizza, now open a block south of the Mile on Galiano, is the first to get it right.

Fabio Bellucci, the owner, focuses on Roman-style pizza, which means a thin, crisp crust. This bears little resemblance to the floppy Neapolitan style pies which until now have been the benchmark of quality in the Gables (versus chain-style doughy pizzas), at places like Terre del Sapore and Pummarola. Like Terre, the dough at Belluz is made from Italian flour, which is less processed than American flour and better for digestion. The Belluz dough ferments for 48 hours using a blend of two Italian flours, and you notice the difference before you finish the first bite.

Although the space is not large, it is thoughtfully set up. A long wooden counter lined with bar stools runs through the room, and a bench along the wall seats six, giving you enough room to sit and eat without feeling rushed. The pies come round (scrochiarella) or rectangular by the tray (pizza romana), and start at $15.99. We tried one layered thick with mortadella and stracciatella, finished with streaks of blackberry jam across the top. Fantastic. Or you can stick to traditional cheese pizza – and order al taglio (“by the slice”) – for
$5.99 – Amanda Martell

2413 GALIANO ST
305.773.9420
BELLUZPIZZA.COM