Rarified Japanese

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MOTTAI ELEVATES THE DISHES OF JAPAN TO NEW HEIGHTS OF FLAVOR

Photos By Rodolfo Benitez

First there was Fogo de Chão, then CVI.CHE 105, then Mika. Now, The Plaza Coral Gables has added another sensational restaurant to the mix of cuisine surrounding its acre-sized plaza: Mottai. The interior – inspired by French Japonisme, a blend of European architectural elements and Japanese symbolism – is worth a visit by itself. The cerulean blue and ivory white color palette makes the high ceilings feel airier, helping float a central canopy over an open sushi station in the center of the space.

A bas-relief wall sculpture of a white crane in flight provides a backdrop for the central seating area, with a dedicated bar to one side and four semi-private dining alcoves in each corner, framing the room. The couches lining the walls are blue velvet, and the high ceilings and copious use of drapery absorb sound so that talking is easy and not strained.

The interior design is an appropriate platform for the exquisitely light fare, which tweaks traditional Japanese cuisine into something brighter. The sashimi and nigiri are world class, deftly prepared by sushi chef Hiroshi Shintaku, who is frighteningly serious in the execution of his craft. We indulged in his nine-piece nigiri selection, pricey at $78, but easily the best sushi you will ever eat. Our selection included toro belly (bluefin tuna), akami (yellowfin tuna), shima aji (striped jack), kinmedai (golden eye snapper), hamachi (yellowtail), and kanpachi (amberjack).

The rest of the menu is more reasonably priced, especially considering the stunning quality and creativity of the dishes. We tried several of the hot small plates ($13-$30) and loved the grilled Japanese eggplant with miso mustard and sweet tentsuyu sauce, and the shishito peppers with chive aioli and chili lime salt. The deep fried rock shrimp were positively addictive.

Among the signature dishes, the black garlic chicken ($30), paired with carrot puree and charred scallion, was moist and superbly flavorful, but for us the star of the night was the kinoko hot pot ($36), the Japanese version of Korea’s bibimbap, where mushrooms and furikake rice are mixed tableside in a hot stone bowl with egg yolk, yuzu soy butter, and chili crunch. The bowl remains hot and continues to cook the rice, giving it a textured edge.

Our bowl was mixed by waitress Valentina, who, besides being efficient and convivial, was also quite knowledgeable about Japanese cuisine. She recommended we try their chocolate fondant cake with a crunchy black sesame cocoa nib tuile and Okinawan espresso ice cream, which uses Okinawan brown sugar for a unique tangy taste. She also recommended that we sample one of their signature cocktails, a citrus mezcal that went down with refreshing ease – and another reflection of the Miami influence on Mottai.

Surprisingly, Mottai is not a Japanese transplant, but the first U.S. entry of Brazil’s Attivo hospitality group, which owns 13 restaurants in its home country. This is not as random as it sounds, since Brazil has the largest Japanese population in South America. The menu was conceptualized by Chef Brian Nasajon in collaboration with Chef Shintaku and Executive Chef Moritz, in a deliberate effort to creatively blend traditional Japanese cuisine with a local perspective.

“Japanese cuisine is built on discipline and respect for ingredients, and that foundation guided every decision we made,” says Nasajon. “The goal wasn’t to reinvent anything but to understand why these techniques work and apply them in a way that feels honest to where we are. Being from Miami, I understand that people want lighter, more shareable, and more ingredient-driven options – so the menu reflects that balance between tradition and a contemporary perspective.”