Spring Skiing

Learning to Ski, Austrian Style

Mooser Hotel
St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria
+43 5445 2644

By Yousra Benkirane

It started with a plane, then a train, then finally a car that wound its way up into the Alps. By late March, the snow in St. Anton starts to soften – but the season is far from over. The mornings remain crisp, the peaks still powdered, and the runs as exhilarating as ever. Yet, the ambiance shifts. The sun lingers longer, terraces buzz with anticipation, and après-ski transforms into a sun-drenched celebration of spring.

I’d never skied in the spring before – or, to be honest, skied much at all. I grew up near the beach, not the mountains. But there was something appealing about the idea of learning in the Alps. It felt ambitious in the best way.

The Mooser Hotel sits just above the village of St. Anton, seamlessly integrated into the slope beside one of the main runs. It doesn’t seek attention; instead, it harmonizes with its surroundings. The design is minimalist, emphasizing natural materials and panoramic views. From the room, I could see people flying past on trails I wasn’t brave enough to attempt (yet).

Here, “ski in, ski out” isn’t a marketing phrase; it’s a daily reality. Equipping ourselves in the hotel’s locker room, we stepped directly onto the slope. I started small: flat terrain, getting used to the boots, learning how to stop. The instructor was patient, and the snow, softened by the spring sun, was gentle on my falls. But within an hour, I was sliding. Not gracefully, but moving nonetheless. The skiing exceeded my expectations: Springtime mornings offered firm conditions ideal for carving the snow, while afternoons brought a forgiving softness.

I took my time descending – side-stepping, stopping often, laughing through most of it. But I made it down.

A Different Kind of Après

There’s a rhythm to skiing in St. Anton that spring amplifies. As the mountain quiets in the afternoon, the valley comes alive. MooserWirt, just a short descent from the hotel, becomes a hive of energy at around 3 pm. The soundtrack? Straight house music blasting unapologetically. The dress code? Ski boots, sunglasses, maybe goggles dangling off one arm. On more than one occasion, we finished our last run dancing shoulder-to-shoulder with Germans, Brits, or Austrians – strangers united by nothing more than snow and Schlager.

There are other kinds of après-ski events held in the alps, like MAJA, held at the Hospiz Alm’s sun terrace in St. Christoph. From noon, the terrace transforms into an open-air club, with DJs spinning electronic beats, champagne flowing, and dancers reveling under the alpine sun. It’s a fusion of mountain charm and modern festivity, drawing an international crowd seeking both thrill and chill.

After the music fades and the lifts stop spinning, the best place to land is back at Mooser’s spa: a minimalist wellness space with saunas, steam rooms, and an indoor-outdoor pool that lets you float beneath snowflakes as the sun sets behind the peaks. In spring, that pool becomes a haven – warm water, cold air, and nothing on the agenda but recovery.

Left: Springtime morning skiing offers firm conditions ideal for carving the snow. In the afternoon, the softer snow is more forgiving for falling.
Midddle: The crowded MooserWirt après-ski bar near the hotel comes alive after 3 PM with loud music and dancing.
Right: St. Anton in the evening offers fondue spots and alpine taverns.

Dinner most nights was at the hotel’s restaurant, where Tyrolean staples – dumplings, mountain trout, roasted game – are prepared with a light hand and a strong sense of place. When we did venture into town, fondue spots and alpine taverns welcomed us in with wood-paneled walls, candlelight, and that casual, confident hospitality Austria does so well.

There’s a particular magic to spring skiing – one that can’t be replicated in January. It’s in the duality of it all: snow beneath your skis, sun on your face, a party at altitude, and silence on the chairlift. In St. Anton, the season doesn’t fade out; it crescendos. And for skiers chasing the last great days of winter – plus a little extra – the mountain is waiting.