Ecléctico: Where the Tastes are as New and Breezy as the Layout
And Now for Something… Fun!
Just when you thought your taste buds had become jaded, along comes the new concept Ecléctico, recently opened in the Shops at Merrick Park. The brainchild of restauranteur Ramzi Zahr, who created the Lebanese/Japanese fusion at nearby Sawa, Ecléctico presents a fresh new array of tastes.
The idea behind Ecléctico – which is also an agave bar with a stunning array of tequilas and mezcals – is pan-Latin. What that comes down to is Peruvian with a dash of Argentine and a taste of Latin Caribbean, all with an overlay of Mexican. The result is what Ecléctico calls “what could be if we venture to step outside the realms of tradition.” In other words, eating outside the box.
Like other “small plates” on the menu, the tacositos are meant to be shared and come in a raft of four. The same goes for their “Return of the Mac,” a surprising twist on mac and cheese. This is presented as four half-shells of the noodles and cheese, fried to create a crust; inside is the mac with gouda and a touch of jalapeño, drizzled with truffle crema and truffle shavings, topped with cilantro. Yes, it’s mac and cheese, but reinvented to lighten and heighten the flavors.
The menu throughout follows that theme: familiar dishes put through a pan-Latin filter that makes them new and interesting. Their ceviche? Done with big chunks of seafood, avocado and sweet potato, with a coconut lime marinade. Just delicious. Their chicharron? A crispy edge to the otherwise soft and succulent pork belly, with lime and green onion. You will never be able to eat the usual chicharron again. They also do vegan dishes, such as the Chorizo enchilada with homemade vegan crema cheese sauce.
Keeping it fresh, Chef Jaime O Montilla makes everything in house from scratch daily, from sauces and seasonings to tortillas. And not everything is derivative; his “Forbidden Sea” dish is a unique combination of lobster, scallops, shrimp, octopus, and maduros (fried sweet plantains), all atop a bed of black Indian rice with a Puerto Rican sofrito sauce. Not to be missed.
The interior of Ecléctico is true to its name, an eclectic potpourri of different design elements. The tin ceiling makes it feel like an upscale Latin cafeteria, the mural of famous people on the back wall like a hip L.A. coffee house, the extremely comfortable velvet chairs like an elegant, upscale restaurant, and the large TV screens (and large bar) give it a sports bar effect. Eclectic indeed. Two of the walls are entirely glass, which open onto the quiet streets on the edge of the Shops and give everything a feeling of openness.
Speaking of the bar, a special aspect of Ecléctico is a vast menu of more than 120 tequilas, from a humble Hornitos ($12) to a super-premium 1800 Milenio ($48). They also offer more than 50 mezcals, an up-and-coming variation of tequila made from roasted agave plants to give it a smokey flavor. Their specialty cocktails are also worthy. We sampled one that involved a Camarena tequila with mango habanero sauce and lime. Tangy and refreshing. Ask your waitress; ours was very well informed.
More than anything else, Ecléctico is a fun place to eat, with an inventive new cuisine. The relaxed, open atmosphere belies the quality of the food, which is high-end and sophisticated. And don’t forget the dessert. The molten chocolate lava cake was the winner for us.
Eclético
Shops at Merrick Park
320 San Lorenzo Avenue
EcleticoMiami.com
- Photos by Jonathan Dann