Up on the Roof 

Above the Fray With “Neuvo American” Cuisine 

The song “Up on the Roof ” was first recorded in 1962 by The Drifters, and it became a major hit the following year. And who could resist the feeling expressed, that all your cares “just drift right into space” once you climb those stairs. 

In the case of Cebada, the first and only rooftop restaurant in Coral Gables, you get there by elevator. But your cares do drift away, there above the fray of Giralda Plaza, with an extra boost from inventive cocktails and a cuisine style that Chef Jorge Ramos describes as “New American.” Our take is to call it Nuevo American, since it melds an eclectic combination of American and Latin flavors. What could be more American than corn on the cobb? Not much, except when Ramos’ tasty “Corn Ribs” – strips of the cobb roasted with tajin and crema de mojo, served with queso fresco and cilantro – creates a flavor profile straight out of Mexico. 

The same goes for his fried chicken. It’s an all-American dish, except this is “Spanish Fried Chicken” that uses cornmeal instead of flour (gluten-free!), and is served with a coating of guava butter. Not exactly from the Deep South, but truly delicious and at $45, easily enough for two or three people. 

The chicken comes from the “Sharables” part of the menu; other menu sections offer Pastas, Sea, Ranch, Farm, Spanish Cheeses, and Raw Bar selections. From “Ranch” we tried the sweet, creamy roasted bone marrow ($20), prepared with veal cheek marmalade and salsa verde, and served with toast points. Again, American but nuevo.

The heirloom tomatoes did not overwhelm us – I’m not sure that the bed of plantains works – but the butter lettuce with avocadoes, candied walnuts, and shallots is a delight ($14). So is the yellowfin tuna Crudo with shallots, corn relish, serrano peppers, ponzu, and plantain chips, on a bed of mango and aji amarillo sauce ($17). The cocktails are also highly inventive with the use of ginger in several, which gives them a satisfying bite. 

Overarching the experience of the food is the wonderful setting, overlooking Giralda Plaza and the city beyond. Few places are better for watching the sunset over The Gables, with its rare, open-air feeling. 

The struggle to create Coral Gables’ first rooftop restaurant was not entirely smooth, however, with suspicions on the part of city officials that the new Cebada would become a raucous nightclub. Yes, there is music (a great soundtrack that moved seamlessly from Curtis Mayfield to Jamiroquai), but this is evening relaxation, not nighttime anarchy. Six months into its Gables foray, the city’s only rooftop hangout is a welcome addition to the dining mix, a great place to impress dates, bring friends, and explore new taste sensations. Where else can you order both West Coast oysters and pig ears?