Someone’s Son Is Born
By Lizzie Wilcox
Located in the Douglas Entrance complex comes a new restaurant from Threefold Café’s Nick Sharp. Where Threefold on Giralda Plaza is known for its all-day breakfast, Someone’s Son is open for lunch and dinner. Hailing from Melbourne, Sharp adds nuances from his homeland: He serves mostly Australian wines and even arranges the lighting in the main dining room to resemble stars in the Southern Hemisphere night sky (also found on the Australian flag). The name itself, Someone’s Son, comes from a verse in a popular Australian song.
The starters alone have been blessed by the food gods. The Beet Salad, topped with pistachios, radish and carrot puree, is a light amuse-bouche to get the stomach prepared to work overtime. The Jerk Cabbage is a myriad of tastes, from the braised-jerk split peas to the crunchy cabbage in a coconut cream that balances any bitterness from the red cabbage.
The Beef Carpaccio is a really new take: thin tenderloin with arugula caper salad, aged parmesan, smoked maldon salt and horseradish cream, all pleasantly complementing the meat. But what steals the starters show is the Gnudi. Sharp describes it as like gnocchi, but instead of potato, it’s risotto based. Made with sage, whiskey cream, parmesan, truffle crumb and drizzled with a balsamic reduction, we practically licked the bowl clean. For both quality and quantity, all the dishes are moderately priced. Starters are between $7 and $15 and the most expensive entrée is $28. That would be The Softy – a braised short rib on sweet potato mash, topped with baby carrots and tarragon bordelaise. It’s like gourmet baby food for adults. The rib is so tender it can be eaten with a spoon, and the bordelaise is simply heavenly. The Shank is a similar dish: Australian lamb shank on top of a creamy mash with seared root vegetables and natural lamb jus. Highly recommended.
There’s seafood on the menu, too. We loved the seared branzino (above), with braised lentils and an orange fennel broth. The fish is cooked to perfection with crunchy skin and soft meat. Each bite must be eaten with the citrus-y sauce. A perfect light dish for summer.
For dessert, tres leches can step aside. Someone’s Son serves a Passionfruit 5 Leches, made with five cakes, vanilla custard, meringue and passionfruit curd. It’s so soft and moist it nearly dissolves in your mouth. The other two dessert options – the Pavlova meringue-based cake and the Lamington chocolate mousse – are also superbly light and fresh. Even in its beginning stages, it’s apparent this restaurant is going to be as big a hit as the song.